Wednesday 9 September

Well 7.15am found us off up the road back to the SOS clinic - both boys still not well, but Alex having been really sick. He was awake on and off all night - we gave the restaurant a miss by the way. Do you know even at 3.00 in the morning when there is no other traffic on the road, the drivers still hoot their horns, including those with the double horns which sound like trumpet serenades, as they drive along. Why? haven't a clue - but I can tell you it's not funny! Finally he went off to sleep in our bed only to vomit every where!!! We got dressed, called house keeping and asked them to change everything, put him in the buggy and set off. This time he saw a lady doctor. Overnight he has developed a really chesty cough and we were worried that he had a chest infection setting in but his lungs were still clear. She checked him out and he was fine but she has given us a spray for his nose and some drops to clear any congestion. Dennis on the other hand does have a chest infection and has a course of antibiotics for 8 days. We'll all be OK to fly. Naturally Alex was quite tired today so we kept it simple, bland baby rice and banana, bottles and just playtime in our apartment. Both boys napped on the bed for an hour or so. Early afternoon we went to Highland Coffee for an outing and he had a great time charming all the girls - definitely a McCarthy.

Late afternoon I went swimming and Dennis played with Alex in the pool area. A guy from the Netherlands got chatting to him, he had a little boy of around 17 months - he had been adopted from just outside Ho Chi Minh City - its funny people from other countries still call it Saigon!

He wasn't long out of bed today. The Vietnamese tend to click at their children. The tongue is put at the back of the roof of the mouth and then a clicking noise is made. We got this noise from his carer and we have used it to great effect. However bedtime had become very western - shhh, shhh, sleep now, etc. He has gone to sleep quite well the first couple of days, and I know we used the noise periodically as we were making a great effort to ease the transition, but last night and tonight it deteriorated to the point that tonight was almost hysteria. He went rigid and was almost screaming, he'd had his bottle and we were afraid that he would begin vomiting again. We'd done everything, checked for wind, heat, teeth, fever, you name it we'd done it. He was very tired but was just not going to give in. I don't know what made me do it but I made the clicking noise and kept on repeating it over and over, he calmed down almost immediately and within seconds was asleep in my arms. We placed him in the cot and all was well with the world.

After the midnight bottle we did the same thing, just made the noise and stroked his back. Back to sleep almost immediately. He stirred twice, once when he got cold, so we covered him with his blanket and repeated the process and then again when his foot got stuck in the cot, again the same. Hopefully this is a breakthrough. We mentioned it to a few of the others - all had noticed that the children were clicked at but it just hadn't registered. Only 5 days later but hopefully the situation can now remain calmer. We had noticed that when feeding him his baby rice and fruit etc. that if you clicked his little mouth would open or if you are walking out or holding him and you make the noise you get a big grin but we just hadn't put it all together. Doh! As Homer would say.

There was a moment today that we wish we had been able to record - he used Dennis's trouser legs to pull himself upright put his arms up towards him and said dada - he did it twice more. We don't know what he actually understands. The Vietnamese language is based on our letters so that isn't a hurdle to be overcome, sounds are quite similar it is intonation that says it all. He says "Ba" a lot which means daddy, he says "ma" which means mother and "me" which means mummy - but obviously these are quite indiscriminate - or maybe they're not. We like to think that he knows who we are.

Sunday saw another milestone but we wanted to be sure - his first tooth actually broke through - it is the bottom front one to the right - it is well in its way now. The first of many.

Well our time here is nearly over, our journey to Alex almost done. Dennis will collect his passport tomorrow and we'll start to pack up. The transit hotel in Singapore is booked for Saturday and we'll be heading for the airport at about 11.00ish. After tomorrow our blog will come to an end, we hope that you have enjoyed coming on our journey with us. We will keep this and your comments and many emails for Alex as a record of how we came to him, along with the book that we have written for him. Thank you for being part of this and we look forward to sharing our lives with each other and with you for a long time to come.

As I finish this I have just put him down for his nap, clicking away like some old hen! Just before his eyes closed we looked out of the window over Hanoi - below us the street is bustling with people, bikes, cars and of course the continual hooting - strange as it sounds we may actually miss that sound. As you raise your eyes upwards you take in the buildings opposite, shops, living accomodation and then as you look up further you see sky scrapers advertising the many banks and cranes and sun, lots of sun. Our window on Vietnam may be closing but the old and the new manage to survive here for now, hopefully that will remain so. Vietnam is full of visitors from all over the world most with good intentions and some not so, but it is also full of real people long may that continue. I'd hate to think that they would be driven out by the blow-ins!

There may be one more post following our homeward journey - may be not. We'll see what the rest of today - Thursday brings. But if not thanks again and good night.

Monday 7 September

Time is flying by, we are into our last few days here. No swimming this morning but after breakfast we all went out. We went to Singapore Airlines to confirm our flights home and to book a ticket and a bassinet for Alex. The staff were so nice, really helpful. It is incredibly hot today so whilst in the airline offices we made up his bottle and actually fed him in there whilst Dennis was making the arrangements. They even do a weaning meal for him how neat is that.

After sorting all that out we went past the lake and back to Nagu, the teddy bear shop. His was ready, it is beautiful and unique. It was gift wrapped and everything. We took a gentle stroll back to the apartments where we got more supplies and then went to the Highland coffee - a bit like Starbucks, well alot like Starbucks for coffee and drinks as Master McCarthy was fast asleep.

An American guy chatted to us for a while, he had his 1 year old little girl with him. They have been here for about a month and will be here for the next 4 years. By the time they go home, his little girl will know no different. As we came back upstairs we said that this is a sign of things to come. Being talked to by other people with children for no other reason that that - a new world of friends will open up for us and him.

I made a note to myself today - I noticed that both my boys just happened to be in clothes by John Rocha whilst mum was dressed in Dunnes specials! By the way that is not going to be a regular occurrence - designer clothes I mean. Please see today's picture for the latest in Little John Rocha!

When we logged in to check emails etc. Alex had received his first email - Singapore Airlines emailed him to confirm his booking! The first of many I suppose.

Both are feeling much better, still not right though so as they napped I got a taxi to the Real Stamp Shop and collected the carved stone stamps that we had ordered and then walked to the Silk shop and collected my clothes. I strolled back to the apartments - it is too hot to do anything else. When I arrived I found 1 boy running up and down the apartment holding on to daddy's hands and the other boy with his legs crossed - desperate for a pee - he hadn't been able to leave him alone. Something else we'll have to get used to.

The rest of the evening was quite uneventful - dinner, bath and bed - room service for us and bed by 9.00.

He sleeps till around 12 then wakes for a bottle and then sleeps again till 6.00. and this seems to be the only part of his "schedule" that has remained. Everything else seems to differ almost daily.

Tuesday 8 September

Today at around 7.00ish we went swimming. There was a South African family, mum, dad and 2 boys in the pool and Alex was fascinated by all of the jumping in, splashing and hilarity of it all. One of the other dad's then joined Dennis, and I kept on doing my lengths.

His breakfast was around 8.15, Dennis showered whilst this happened and then entertained him whilst it was my turn. Alex napped while we had breakfast in the restaurant which was very decent of him! He woke at the end in time for some mashed banana. After breakfast we went to the foyer, some more people were just about to embark on their journey to Lang Son. Some families who left very recently had given us a bag of clothes that they wanted us to pass onto the orphanage, so we gave them to the two Helping Hands representatives. Playing was then the order of the morning, bit of a stroll round the pool area and a chat with one of the other families followed by his lunch. Everything was a bit later today so he had no mid morning nap. Mmmm - not such a good idea - it took ages for him to go down after lunch and he wasn't a happy chap. For the first time I was also trying to get 40 winks - maybe he knew. Mind you one hour later he was wide awake and raring to go. May be this evening we might chance the restaurant!

As I write daddy is on playtime duty, one's a builder and the other is becoming a demolition expert - I'll leave it to you to make up your own mind as to who is who.

Saturday 5 September & Sunday 6 September

We started today exactly as yesterday. Awake at 6.00, feed, swim whilst Dennis walked him around the pool area and then our breakfast. The only difference was our first dirty nappy - both he and we survived. He does not like to be in the buggy unless it is moving and he doesn't like to be put down at all he wants to be up in our arms. He had a brief nap and then we decided to go downstairs into the shopping mall to get a few bits of shopping. There is a toy shop here and we bought him a globe with 4 butterflies on, all parts of which are ideal for teething children, it is all rubber. We also bought a small wooden trolley with different shaped and coloured building blocks. We came back to the apartment and opened them up - well we had a different boy immediately. We both got on the floor with him and played with everything - we got his first proper smiles, gurgles and laughter. It was beautiful. The main picture that we have posted is the evidence, just look at that face, how can we not be amazed by him. He crawled around the floor chasing blocks it was magical. We knew that he could crawl because he had attempted it slightly the day before but because he wouldn't go down on the floor we didn't know how well he crawls. He is now flying about the apartment. He also likes to hold onto your fingers and walk up and down and around the apartment. If one of us is out of the room he likes to hold on to the others hands and follow the missing parent. Big smiles on his face.

We tried him on a jar of Hipp food for his lunch - he loved it - except we had to give him medicine and it made him wretch, both he and I were covered. Bathtime for all concerned.

In the afternoon we returned to the Silk shop for me to try on my outfit. We took him in the buggy. The ladies in the shop were smitten by him straightaway. They smiled a lot and the lady that spoke excellent English told us how lovely it was to see a baby being so comfortable with its new parents so soon after meeting. I think that is the closet we are going to come to a gold star.

After supper another bath and then bed. We are all still here, nappies and vomiting aside. We all coped admirably. He may have other ideas on that score.

We should have guessed - with everything having been going along swimmingly the test was coming - 8.20 it arrived with a vengeance. He woke with a shout and then the sobs began. Nothing but nothing could console him. In the end we got into bed, one either side of him and stroked his back - out like a light and so were we - no one heard another thing until 1.20 - bottle, nappy, cot - 4.45 wide awake. We tried the bed plan again - got another hour just. Dennis by now is feeling not well at all. His throat was sore all day yesterday. We decided that we'd both shower and then I'd give him breakfast whilst Dennis went to the SOS clinic that we had gone to on Friday.

Alex and I got on fine, we even went down to breakfast together. I tell you what I need a license for the buggy - it is impossible to drive - even I think I'm dangerous. Dennis came back during breakfast and with our suspicions confirmed - he has tonsillitis caught from our son. Fortunately it has been caught early enough, he has a little brown bag of medication and that should keep him going for the next few days.

We didn't do very much today - both boys are not too well and it is incredibly hot. We all took it easy - in fact I took a couple of great pictures, both of them asleep, Alex in Dennis's arms, lying on the sofa. Playing was the order of the day, eating and sleeping. He napped in his cot after lunch, Dennis nearby doing the same. I prepared a dinner for us - it is amazing what you can do with an onion, some carrots, a couple of potatoes, peas and a tin of tomatoes.

My mum and dad called via Skype and we put our camera on him and he performed perfectly. They got to see him live - isn't technology great - sometimes any way.

Well as I write this he is fast asleep, we are approaching last night's action hour so we'll wait and see. We have eaten dinner, not too bad and we have some home cooked mashed potato and carrots for him to try tomorrow.

As we look back on today we have had raspberries, chatting - lots of - obviously understood by no one but the chatterer, that'll come and, even though not well, lots of smiles and laughter.

I don't think we'll be long out of bed - I can see a pattern forming.

Friday 4 September

Last night was all very new for everyone as you can imagine. However I think we all managed fine. He was in bed asleep by 6.30ish after falling asleep in my arms, so very nearly were we! Bottles were sterilised and preparations made for the ones that would be necessary overnight ie. water prepared, formula put into containers ready to pour and nappies etc. at the ready. We were incredibly lucky! We went to bed ourselves around 9.00 - he woke at 12 on the dot, he was changed and fed by the two of us in 10 minutes, there is no flies on this boy when it comes to food - a bit like his dad - and he was back to sleep by 12.15 at the latest. We fell asleep almost immediately and no one, including Alex knew anything until 6.00.

He woke with a start, everything is very new for him. We fed him and changed him and he seemed happy to stay awake. His carer at the orphanage gave us his schedule, but that already seems to have gone out of the window so currently we're winging it. Dennis suggested about 7.00ish that I go swimming and that he would put Alex in the buggy and wheel him around the pool area. It was a great success, there was plenty to keep him occupied and Dennis. He kept checking to see if I was there it was lovely. I got out of the pool and Dennis went to order some con gee for him. It is a traditional rice porridge and he is supposed to have his with pork. We tried him on some plain con gee last night but he wasn't too impressed. So we thought we'd try again. Whilst Dennis was ordering I started playing pee poe with him and it is the first time there has been a proper little smile and a gurgle. The moment brought tears to my eyes. Breakfast was not a great success - we are going to give up the con gee. He prefers baby rice, thank god for a friend who suggested that I bring some with us as at least we would be able to read the instructions - great plan.

After showers it was time for our breakfast. We took him to the restaurant in the buggy. Actually, as a first family outing things went quite well. He was centre of attention and he loved it - all of the waitresses thought he was very cute. I ordered the fruit bowl which is a selection of melons, pineapple, apple etc. as it was put down he swooped on a piece of water melon - hopefully his interest in healthy eating will continue. I followed this with some muesli with a banana, again his little nose twitched so we mashed some up for him and it went down a treat - that's his snack sorted.

We all played for a while and following his lunch - which is currently still a bottle it was time for his nap. He fought and fought, wouldn't go into the cot or the buggy, eventually we wrapped him up and I held him in my arms and he went to sleep lying curled up on our bed. Once he was really asleep I moved and we put pillows around him and kept a close eye whilst he slept.

Once he was awake we decided that we would take him to the SOS clinic just up the road. He has developed a rash around his neck, his little cheeks have become livid (at first we put this down to teething - he has two beauties cutting on the bottom) and he was very hot and bothered. So without further ado we put him in the buggy and pushed him down the street. People couldn't take their eyes off us, it was quite unnerving but not unexpected. Adoption is not new here, many other countries world-wide have Agreements with Vietnam, but I would think it is never something that you get used to.

All I can say is thank god we took him. We didn't have an appointment but as with any A & E department, babies and the elderly take precedent. After filling in some forms, that was very strange I can tell you, for the first time when asked for the relationship between us and the patient, we put parents, we saw the Chief Medical Officer almost straight away. He was a French doctor and extremely nice and very helpful. He gave Alex a thorough examination, he has a fever and he gave us some medication for that, his tonsils are slightly inf lammed, and some antibiotics will nip that in the bud. He also gave us some hydrocorteson cream for the rash and some cream for his little face. We have to start that in a couple of days. All in all though he is an extremely healthy little boy, mind you we did get a fright and I sure that this is only the beginning. We waited whilst the pharmacist brought the medicines to us and then we put him in the buggy for the walk home. This cost the princely sum of $158 dollars, around €120.00 euros and that includes all medication, consultation and examination. Cheap at half the price.

Dennis is on medication duty! For supper today he had more baby rice with mashed banana interspersed with medicine. We gave him his first bath, this was quite successful - not as traumatic as we had feared for either party. Once ready for bed, we gave him a bottle and he was asleep in his cot by 7.00. We have just had room service - not sure that we can face much more of that - we are going to have start cooking for ourselves. I am now writing this and we won't be long out of bed. Mind you there seems to be a party in the hotel this evening around the pool area, so maybe we will be awake a while longer.

Just one more thing, thank you everyone, on behalf of ourselves and Alex for all of your good wishes both on the blog and via email. They mean an awful lot to us and really are appreciated.

See you all soon.

Thursday 3 September

This is just a quick note to let you all know that we are now the proud parents of a very beautiful baby boy. He is 10 months old today. I'm sure you can appreciate that today has been an incredibly emotional experience for everyone and we are all just trying to get used to one another. Will try and post later today if not tomorrow.

Wednesday 2 September

One more day to go. Today is the National Day. The street where the hotel is seems to be less busy, less hooting horns and not so many people about. We took a walk towards the lake stopping off at the shopping centre. Well, you couldn't move in there, I think half of Hanoi must have been shopping - just like Ireland on a Bank Holiday. We didn't hang around. We walked up to the puppet theatre to see if there was a 3.30 showing but the first one is not until 5.00 and that's just a bit too late. Even the lake was busy today, no empty to seats on while to while away half an hour or so. It's amazing how every big city seems to have an open space with water where you can actually forget you are in the middle on one - except today. Refreshments beckoned. We caught up with a few of our fellow travellers. They had just been and collected some silk items that they had commissioned, they were beautiful so after coffee and water we ventured to the same shop. I have been measured for a pair of trousers and an overdress - we go back for them on the 5th. Dennis was slightly less adventurous and has had a dressing gown. A deep navy blue embroidered with gold thread in an ornate pattern.

We wound our way home and as we walked along the street where the hotel is we came across one of the pretend 500,000 Dong notes that people were burning yesterday so we have kept that as a memento. There doesn't seem to be any offerings today, we think there maybe fireworks this evening and there was certainly a stage and lighting put up at the lake. We did a bit of grocery shopping ready for tomorrow. We are just eager to get there now. For the first time on our travels we actually had a spot of lunch, nothing out of the ordinary, a tuna sandwich for me and a toasted cheese and ham for Dennis. Nerves! We came back to the apartment and now I am writing this. I swam before breakfast but I might go again after I have had a snooze, the calm before the storm you might say. Most of our bags are ready for tomorrow now, not too much left to do, just the formula to sort out and put hot water in the bottles but we won't do that until tomorrow morning.

As a group we are meeting up in the restaurant around 7.00.

Not sure if we will have time to post tomorrow, it may not be until Friday - however we will try to add a line or two just to let you know if everything is OK.

Tuesday 1 September - part 2

Just got back from dinner and couldn't wait until tomorrow to post this entry.

For starters the massage has to be the best that I have ever had - no wonder Dennis came home on Friday raving about it. The Movenpick Hotel is just around the corner, it is a Swiss Group and they have hotels all over the world. The decor is immaculately put together to create an air of elegance with a modern twist. All the lines are crisp and clean in neutral colours with vibrant burnt oranges and reds thrown in against the backgrounds for colour. As you arrive at the hotel there is an old vintage car, cream - nothing less really. Doormen have the doors open before you even step onto the premises. The Wellness Centre is on the third floor, even the lifts are stylish - if that is possible. We were shown into a room with two massage beds draped with burnt orange towels with a cream daisy at the foot of each.

The massage was incredible, she found lumps and bumps that I didn't even know I had. It was like being completely ironed out and all for €20 each for one hour! We both walked home like we were on air.

We decided that we would go to the restaurant that we had planned to go to last evening. We are so glad we did. We got off to a sticky start, the taxi from our hotel dropped us at a restaurant, we walked in, were shown to a table and sat down. It didn't quite feel right, it was a lovely restaurant but the name was different to what we expected. We were very lucky with our waiter because when we asked him if this was the Wild Lotus he explained that the restaurant was further down the street. Fortunately we hadn't ordered anything so we up sticks and left, thanking him very much. We walked down the street in the direction he had pointed us. I was just about to say to Dennis that we should forget it when there it was in front of us. We walked in, to be greeted by a lovely waitress and calm and serene decor. As we entered you walked over wooden steps set in water surrounded by pink lotus flowers. Then up some steps, the wall on the left had water trickling down it again being collected by a pool with the lotus blossoms in. The top of the stairs opened out into the waiting area - beautiful leather comfy chairs with velvet cushions, many shades of rusts, browns and creams. After ordering drinks we were shown to our table. The menu was very extensive but entirely lived up to its promise. I had Chili prawn fish cakes with a sweet chili sauce to start, Dennis had beef & spicy vegetable spring rolls, the rolls were made from rice and sprinkled with sesame seeds with a dipping sauce. Both were really yummy. I had grilled sea bass with lemon grass for main, Dennis had grilled beef in black pepper sauce. His sauce was fantastic - fine cuts of beef cooked with finely chopped chillies, whole black pepper corns, garlic and herbs in a very light sauce. We had mixed vegetables and steamed rice. This was definitely the best meal we have eaten since we left. The clientele were a mixture of Vietnamese, business people and tourists. Dessert was banana fritters served on banana leaves with a pandarnus sauce, I had Vietnamese black sticky rice topped with a custard, served with a scoop of coconut ice cream. Just perfect. A taxi home rounded things off beautifully.

The cost of the above meal, including a glass of red wine, a bottle of water, 2 Sprites and the tip - a cool 1 million Vietnamese Dong! (forty Euros to you and me).

Tuesday 1 September

Well we're into the final third of the year, time has just flown by it is quite scary how quickly its gone.

We didn't make it to the Vietnamese restaurant last night as we didn't feel the best so we went to the restaurant in the hotel. They have a great menu, a lot of variety and the quality is excellent, just like the breakfasts.

A few families flew home today, their time here finished. It is amazing how quickly you fall into friendships with people, however brief, when you are all on a similar journey. Some of them will be much missed, but all of their support was appreciated.

Today we went to NAGU, it is the shop where they make the special Vietnamese teddy bears. They are beautiful. We have ordered one that comes with jacket and hat and it will be ready for us on Saturday. We have asked for the Vietnamese star to be embroidered on one paw and for the name to be embroidered on the other. The shop has a very calming ambiance. The we slowly walked up the side streets to the top of Hoan Kiem lake, but on the opposite side to that which we normally stroll along. It seemed that the streets we went up today were full of silk fabric shops and the tailors. It was fascinating, they were alive with colour and vibrancy. You could literally walk into some of these places, be measured and go back tomorrow to collect your finished outfit or suit. They were all vying with each other trying to persuade the passers by that their shop was the best.

We noticed that outside a number of places today they had small alters and were burning offerings - quite often pretend money. Pieces of fruit, glasses of wine and incense sticks were also adorning many of them. This is to bring health, wealth and happiness and in celebration and thanks for the National Day tomorrow. The streets are now adorned with flags and bunting, many have lights across them and last night for the first time they were lit. I think tomorrow will be quite a celebration and a really enjoyable scene to be part of.

We have had quite a relaxing day today, finishing off our preparations, making sure we are ready. Bottles sterilised etc. Dennis has had a hair cut - very smart! And we are both off for a massage in a while. Not sure what our dinner arrangements are as yet - depends how we feel after the massage I think. Mind you I do have some red wine left so I feel sure that I might manage a glass or two.

Monday 31 August

Today we were on a mission to try and complete our purchases in case tomorrow is our GnR (Giving and Receiving ceremony). I went swimming and then after breakfast, which is really good here, a great selection: fresh fruit, cereals, hams, cheeses, breads various sorts and jams, juices, danishes, croissants and then you have a selection of hot foods to choose from, eggs and bacon, beans, omelettes - any type you want, eggs benedict, in fact eggs any way you like. Tea and coffee - all of this is in your bed and breakfast rate. You can stock up for the day and you don't need to eat until supper - well I don't, Dennis can't quite manage it the odd cake/dessert keeps slipping in!

We finally headed off after chatting to a couple who are going home tomorrow, their family now complete.

Today was no different, extremely hot and humid. We went and arranged for a couple of photos to be printed off and then, very importantly, got some money. We decided to get a taxi from the hotel to the Vietnamese quilt shop. This shop sells quilts of all different shapes and sizes, cushion covers, decorations, table runners, pillow cases etc. It was founded in 2001 and is an income generation project that offers income and employment for rural women which enable these women to remain in their communities and care for their children and families. We purchased a quilt, play mat and some Christmas decorations and arranged for them to be shipped home. They are beautiful.

Next stop was the teddy bear shop - we failed totally here - one for another day.

Bookshop was next on the agenda. We went to the popular bookshop by the Water Puppet Theatre, however the book we were specifically looking for was not there. We walked along Hoan Kiem Lake to the street where we purchased our gifts for the orphanage and in the shop where we found the colouring books, we found the book that we were looking for. It is a book in both Vietnamese and English about the ethnic people that our son comes from. There are 54 tribes that contribute to the make up of Vietnam.

Then we walked back to the hotel, very, very slowly. On our return there was a message from Miss Quy, our GnR is to be on Thursday. We have to be in reception, ready to leave at 6.00am with everything that we need. At least now we know, just 2 more days to wait. Wednesday is the National Day and will be a bank holiday so maybe that has something to do with the choice of date, maybe not!

After a bit of Googling we found the teddy bear shop so at least now we can go there tomorrow and tick that off our list of things to do. Slowly but surely we are getting there.

We are going to go to another Vietnamese restaurant this evening and will report back tomorrow.

Sunday 30 August

Ha Long Bay - travel writers try to describe it, pictures attempt to show it, even Top Gear have had the three stooges competing in a motorbike race against each other, across part of Vietnam to get there. It is currently in the race to be voted one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the world. It is truly phenomenal.

We left at 8.00am on a tourist bus to complete the 193km journey from Hanoi. The route began similarly to that of our journey to Lang Son, out of Hanoi, across the Red River and onto the main road to China. We travelled as far as Bac Ninh, an hour's ride and then we turned northeast towards Ha Long City.

As expected it was incredibly hot and very humid. The landscape was much flatter here. The water lilies were smaller, more genteel and a beautiful lilac colour. As we drove further there seemed to be more and more building works going on. During our comfort break I asked our guide Tam about them. A lot of the building in this area is for industrial purposes and it shows. The tall thin buildings are residential. Here, as in Ireland, the Vietnamese buy their own homes. They borrow money from the banks just as we do and pay it back over a period of time. Unless, of course they are lucky enough to be given a plot of land by their family on which they can build.

We passed a huge coal-fired power station belching black smoke into the air, it was absolutely huge, Battersea power station would have paled into insignificance next to it. It provided the power for the whole area. Canon, Sanyo and Fujisawa were just some of the companies already here. Canada has an International School here, so they too have a presence. China also has interests in the area.

Just as quickly as this blot appeared on the landscape we were back into the visual splendour that we have come to expect. Lush vegetation, lots of banana trees, water buffalo and cattle.

As we neared Ha Long City the skies darkened, a mist dropped from nowhere, lightening flashed and the heavens opened. The rain bounced off the road, off the pavements and off the people. Some of the smarter street side vendors quickly changed their wares from sandals to wellies! Dogs ran for cover whilst the residents took refuge under the canvas covers belonging to the street vendors. Large summer sun umbrellas suddenly found a new use.

Muddy red rivulets ran off the pavements on to the roads as the clay mixed with the water, pot holes filled rapidly and you could hardly see out of the bus windows. I have never been caught in anything like it - amazing.

It started to ease off as we neared Ha Long Bay, the mist lifted, the rain softened and our first view of the Bay was looked like ghostly shapes appearing in the distance. Ha Long is made up of over 2000 small islands and islets. It would take over 7 years to visit every single one. We were heading for one of the most popular. Hang Sung Sot.

We pulled into the port and collected out belongs and waited for our guide to get our tickets. Our boat was too big to enter the harbour itself so we boarded a tender that took us out to our floating hotel. The view from the water was amazing. There were quite a lot of other junks in the harbour jostling for position, passengers both boarding and alighting. As we sailed out into the bay all became quieter, calmer. The islets rose out of the water like small icebergs - you didn't really know how much was submerged underneath. These limescale rock formations were covered with vegetation, trees and the like.

We boarded the boat and received our room keys. The rooms were spacious, beautifully styled with mahogany floors and fixtures and fittings. The separate bathroom had a toilet and was also a wet room with two showers. The boat did really look like the promotional material - most unusual.

Lunch was served, fish soup, fresh king prawns, spicy spring rolls, grilled fish in lemongrass, ginger and coriander. Chicken, beef, fresh spinach with garlic and sauce, steamed rice, with water melon for dessert. Delicious.

During lunch we cruised towards our destination, Hang Sung Sot. This island has three interlinked caves which have been lit to maximum efect. Stalagmites and stalactites have formed and in some places formed, a monkey, a bear and even female Buddha to mention a few. We reached this island by tender and then we climbed up a maze of steps to reach the caves and then we went down. The cave doing nothing to ease the humidity levels. Every now and again we felt a drip of cold water from the ceiling but that was the only relief against the heat. You can only walk one way through the caves and so as we moved from one to the other we steadily climbed further upwards. The air became quite dense and we frequently needed to take on water. As we emerged from the last cave we peered out across the bay, hundreds of the islets lay before us. It was truly stunning. We then began the climb down towards the other side of the islet back to the tender.

From here we cruised around to another part of the bay where we got into kayaks and paddled under our own steam for a while. It was brilliant, weaving in and out of the houses on water, avoiding other smaller craft and kayaks! We did this for nearly an hour, but my arms gave up before our time was up so we returned to the tender from where some of our fellow passengers had chosen to watch. The tender took us back to our boat where we were invited to put on our swimming gear and jump overboard. Not one to turn down a swim I did the former but took the more cautious route and climbed down the ladder instead. The water was very warm and very salty. I swam a short way from the boat and then returned. Dennis watched from the deck along with some of the others. All the time small craft, like punts, kept approaching the boat laden down with tins of Tiger beer, iced soft drinks, biscuits, crisps etc. someone even spotted boxes of boxer shorts on one. All of these boats are operated by the local women. Only so many are allowed to operate so they form a sort of co-operative per boat and take it in terms to paddle out to the tourist boats. It is the way they support their families.

After showering we went back up to the sun deck to cool off with drinks before dinner. Dinner was served at 7.00 and was along similar lines to lunch. The boat then anchored and we stayed in the bay overnight. It was very relaxing.


Sunday 30 August

Breakfast was at 7.30 following which we had to check out of our rooms so that the crew could prepare them for the next set of guests. However, we took the scenic route back to the harbour arriving around 11.45. Just cruising around was so peaceful. The whole experience was superb and possibly insupassable if we were here just for a holiday. We're not and despite the utter beauty we and our fellow travellers felt we were just marking time, we are all waiting. Don't get me wrong we are all extremely glad we went and wouldn't have missed it but we felt that maybe we hadn't fully appreciated the experience.

On arrival at the port we were taken for lunch and then driven back to Hanoi. All the 7 of us really wanted at that point was to get back to Hanoi. 3 and a half hours later we pulled up in front of the hotel. For the first time in a long time all I wanted was a nice cup of Barry's Tea! Now there's Irish for you.

This evening we are just going to slob in front of the Grandprix with chocolates. Hopefully tomorrow we'll have news of the GnR ceremony.

Thursday 27 August

The journey today seemed different, the roads were quieter, if that is possible here and there seemed to be a haze in the distance. Maybe today we just looked farther a field but we noticed more rice fields and a lot more water. There were flocks of ducks and geese on some of them and huge really vibrant pink water lilies. In fact today's journey seemed more sedate altogether.

In some of the fields were shrines and graves, some were even topped by stone crosses. They were all different, some marble, black, white or terracotta and some resembled small pagodas. We passed one such place and it was all over grown and unkempt, when all others were so pristine this was so out of place and wrong somehow.

Somethings that are for sale here no matter where you go, city or rural areas are electrical goods - huge plasma TVs, stereos, DVD recorders etc. It is nothing to see a fridge being delivered secured to the back of a motorbike. And almost everybody has a mobile phone or 2.

Once again the journey took about three hours. Words cannot describe our time there and I'm not going to try. After our visit we were taken to the Council Offices where some legal matters were dealt with and then we began the journey home.

It gets dark here very quickly, when the sunsets it is almost immediate. We left Lang Son at around 4.30 and by 6.00ish we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets we can remember. We do have some pics and will post them next week.

We have been informed that all being well our Giving and Receiving ceremony will take place next Tuesday or Thursday, Wednesday is the National Day here so it is a Bank Holiday.

We have booked a trip to Ha long Bay, it is meant to be the 8th Wonder of the World. We are heading off on Saturday morning with a few of our fellow travellers. We drive there by bus and then board a boat on which we live for the next day and half. For those of you who remember the "Death on the Nile" Agatha Christie film the boat looks just like that. So there'll be an entry tomorrow of sorts but then not until our Sunday eve/ Monday morning to let you know how the trip went.


Friday 28 August

Today was sort of a free day,if you can call it that. Firstly we wandered around the streets by the hotel, it was fascinating, very hot and humid. Today is quite overcast in comparison to the other days. Everything smells different and the noise levels are several decibels above what we are used to. Next we went by taxi to a place called the Big C. It is a shopping centre about 15 mins away. If you couldn't purchase anything here then it is not worth selling. We made a few last minute purchases for our new arrival. Later, Dennis is going for a massage in the hotel around the corner, I'm going swimming and then the plan is to go to a local Vietnamese restaurant about 5 mins walk away. It comes highly recommended so as long as we keep Dennis away from the seafood tomorrow we'll be off to Ha long.

Wednesday 26 August

On re-reading yesterday's post I realised there was not much atmosphere so hopefully this gives a better taste.

The streets are alive with hustle and bustle. Everyone is so close on some of them that you can almost read the clothes size label. If the pavement is good than an assortment of scooters, mopeds and motor cycles are parked on them 2 abreast. If the pavement is broken then you have to walk on the road, either way you literally take your life into your own hands each time you venture out.

As we walked, sorry zig-zagged, up the street to the shopping centre we passed many and I do mean many, street vendors crouched on the ground selling their wares: fruit, cold drinks, local delicacies, teas, we even smelt someone barbecuing under a canvas shelter.

As it was lunchtime people, mainly men, were sitting or crouching on the street corners playing backgammon and Chinese chequers. We walked for approximately 1km and in that short distance we encountered typical Hanoi City life.

Today

Today dawned very early for all of us I think, I had to go swimming just to try and keep my mind off today. I'd finished by 7.30 though and the bus wasn't collecting us until 10.30!

Finally 10.30 arrived, our guides and 2 buses arrived. We left bang on time. The buses made their way out of Hanoi city, negotiating this was a feat alone. Many sharp intakes of breath later from the passengers and we turned onto the main road to China. Lang Son is 18km from the Chinese border and our journey would take around 3 hours.

As we moved out of Hanoi we passed over 2 working rivers, some of the barges/boats were so laden down it looked as if the sides were just breaking the surface. The land was flat but luscious. There was quite a lot of building going on both residential and industrial. I hope that they don't do overkill here. Many of the homes were 3 story French colonial style buildings. All painted and quite ornate. We moved through Bac Ninh city and then the buildings began to thin out, more and more land was visible. The minute we passed the sign "Welcome to Lang Son" at the beginning of Lang Son province we started to rise - gorges and mountains appeared. For those of you familiar with the Lord of the Rings trilogy the landscape made us all think of these. Caverns, caves and millions of years of rock face. It was all still very green but a different green. The vegetation was now trees, very tall trees, up the side of mountains and down in valleys with the occasional red bush for colour. Houses became single story with the date of construction stamped on them and some became wooden shacks.

As we neared Lang Son town our anxiety levels were rising, we counted off the kilometre markers silently.

Finally we arrived at the orphanage, it is almost in the centre of the town. We got out of the buses - even the heat was different here, hot yes, very hot but little humidity.

What happened inside is going to remain private as it it not just our story to tell. Suffice it to say we all fell in love and didn't want to leave.

Our journey home through the water buffalo, some au naturel and some swathed in mud (an amazing site - just like a wild life documentary) was an emotional relief. So much so that, sorry to disappoint the foodies amongst you, but we've just had room service - burger and fries. I'm having a glass of red wine and writing this and Dennis is downloading our pictures.

We will post some once all the legalities are settled, so please bear with us.

The good news is our second visit is tomorrow!

Tuesday 25 August

The morning dawned to a cacophony of tooting horns and motor cycles, they hadn't really stopped all night but you sort of zone out after a while. Mind you 5.30 was certainly early. We looked out of the window and along the street were people of all ages doing their morning exercises. It looks like it might be a form of Tai Chi - we will have to investigate further. It was already 27 degrees. We met up with some other people who are also travelling to Lang Son and with a few that have been already.

We decided that we would take a walk towards Hoan Kiem Lake, it is in the centre of our district. The heat was incredible, we got as far as a very large department store and I'm afraid to say air conditioning beckoned.

We made it to the Lake after lunch. It is incredibly beautiful with a pagoda at the top end. You have to cross a bridge to reach the temple itself. That's for another day though. We walked to Lan Van Cam which is nicknamed 'Buggy Street' where we purchased - well I'll leave that for you to figure! We had to get a taxi back, thank goodness. I even managed to swim today, the hotel has a pool outside on the 4th floor.

Tomorrow is getting ever nearer. I think anxiety describes best what we are currently feeling - not sure how much sleep will be had this evening.

That's all for now, short and sweet - we leave for Lang Son at 10.30 am tomorrow our time.

Well everyone better late than never, it looks like some of you have arrived at our site before we did, sorry to be so tardy! Technical problems in Singapore.

Friday, Sat & Sun 21, 22 & 23 August

Up before the dawn, 4.00am to be precise. Mum and Rick drove us to the airport and we flew to Heathrow. I don't think I've ever seen so much luggage in my life and all belonging to just 2 people! (Still not one airline charged us excess baggage, for which we are eternally grateful)

From Heathrow we flew to Singapore. An amazing experience in itself. We flew on the new A380, they only have 9 in their fleet and they are only on this route. Sean, the guy at Singapore Airlines in Dublin, who booked the flights for us, had arranged seats up stairs and on our own. From start to finish it was like being on a moving hotel. They couldn't do enough for us. We highly recommend them.

We landed on Satruday in Singapore 30 mins early - we almost expected to hear Michael O'Leary's fanfare!

The taxi ride into our hotel was just like the tourist guides. Singapore is truly spectacular. The first thing that hits you, besides the heat, is the colours, everything is so vibrant.

Our driver was a mine of information and made our journey very special. We arrived at the hotel very early, way before check-in. So we left our luggage and booked ourselves on the city tour. Now I have to say we felt as if we were slightly left of centre having very little sleep, changing time zones and climates but there is nothing like hitting the ground running to sharpen the senses.

Singapore is an incredible city, it is so clean, there is no litter at all, you can't even smoke on the streets unless you are next to a street ashtray - as Dennis found out. Everyone is very polite and friendly and they can't do enough for you. They wouldn't dream of breaking the law - not even slightly. The country is run as a large corporation by business men, in order to be president you must have been a CEO of a large company for at least 5 years. There are quite a few countries that could do worse than use them as a role model.

Whilst there we also visited Sentosa Island, an absolute must, went on a river cruise by night, ate incredibly well, very reasonably, did a bit of shopping on Orchard Road and last but by no means least - a Singapore Sling in Raffles Hotel. (Am in danger of becoming a travel brochure so won't post anymore on the subject but I hope you get a taste of what we felt.).

Monday 24 August

Another crack of dawn start and the beginning of our future.

We flew to Vietnam, gaining an hour so currently it is 6.31 pm. Our first view from the plane was a total shock, it is so green. We hadn't expected that. We're not sure what we did expect but that wasn't it.

The heat is phenominal. As we got off the plane it hits you like a wall. Dense humidity.

The hotel had sent a taxi for us. The journey into Hanoi was a round an hour. Nothing prepares you, no guides, no websites, no-one whose been here before. The land is full of greenery and the fields here are very abundant. All the way in to the city we were surrounded by motor cycles, scooters etc. Everything seems to be carried by this method of transport - the family )literally, goods, livestock etc. You overtake by tooting your horn and just pulling out - no wonder travellers are advised not to drive!

We haven't crossed a road yet but apparently when you do, you just walk and don't stop - they will avoid you, they factor in that you are moving - they only hit you when you stop.

Well folks thats all for now - time for dinner, a glass of wine and a good night's sleep. It may be one of our last for sometime (Yeah).